Minutecast Johannesburg Special 5 – Back home
(This article originally appeared on the Football Japan Minutecast.
Listen to the audio version
here, or subscribe
to the podcast via iTunes here.)
You know what, I think I prefer winter to summer. At least, I do when it’s
a sunny 19°C as opposed to an oppressive 34°C. And fresh and dry rather than so
humid that a ten-minute walk to the shops will leave you soaked even if you
choose one of the few days where it’s not actually chucking it down. It helps
too, of course, when there are parties, songs, and football instead of… well,
work.
I had originally intended to follow the Minutecast recorded at Uruguay versus
Ghana with another at Ellis Park 24 hours later, but this was ultimately
abandoned for three reasons. Firstly, as can be
confirmed by the podcast intro spoken that morning, my voice was absolutely
shot to pieces from Soccer City the night before. Secondly, I was still a bit
gutted that we weren’t going to be seeing Japan, although I did bump into seven
Japanese supporters in and around the stadium that night – including a
Bulgarian girl who seemed delighted not to be the only Caucasian with the Yatagarasu
on her chest. Finally, Spain against Paraguay was simply never going to compare
not only to the drama and controversy of Uruguay’s penalty shootout win, but
also the atmosphere of a genuinely African crowd desperate for the Ghanaians to
keep the flag flying.
In this sense, it was almost a shame that the Soccer City experience had
come on my first full day in Johannesburg. The overriding image that I shall
retain from the South Africa World Cup was that of tens of thousands of locals
– encompassing all races, but most strikingly whites (to whom FIFA’s
latter-stage ticket prices had arguably been most targeted) – decorated in
flags, shirts, and face paint representing a nation of Ghana that most will
surely never have visited. The phenomenon of multinational identity is probably
at least as complex when exhibited so openly as is its far subtler form in East
Asia, and while enjoying Germany’s quarter-final with Argentina at the Long Bar
in Braamfontein, it was equally fascinating to observe how keen the majority of
our fellow punters were to see the gold trophy ‘at least stay in the Southern
Hemisphere’.
Not that the
four-letter jokes being sprouted about Europe meant that I should be seen
as an intruder. On the contrary, virtually every stranger I spoke to – from
street traders to one gentleman in a bar draped in an enormous Ghanaian flag
who later revealed himself to hail from Cameroon – made a point of welcoming me
not only to their country but to Africa. If this is how all tourists and
journalists have been greeted throughout the last five weeks, it is little
wonder that the negative headlines that once dominated the Western and Japanese
press have long been consigned to the archives.
Marc Fletcher
mentioned in the first of the
Minutecast specials that much of this criticism had been penned by ‘people
writing from their armchairs back home rather than coming out here’, and
certainly, there was nothing even witnessed from afar that gave me the
slightest cause for concern during the eight days in which I enjoyed
Johannesburg in person. Traffic in the central business district delayed our
journey to Soccer City slightly but we still arrived comfortably in time for
kick-off. Those who were not so fortunate for the Germany-Spain semi-final in
Durban – the one logistical incident that has affected these Finals – were
apparently muscled aside by jets carrying the VIPs that had left so many seats
vacant in the earlier rounds, suggesting that the problem here may lie less
with the South African organisers and more with FIFA’s priorities. And any
suggestion that vuzuzelas have been a blight on the tournament will curry
little favour with this column, which thoroughly enjoyed blowing B-flats both
at the actual matches and at a friend’s wedding reception back in Japan this
past Saturday.
As for Japan, their
elimination to Paraguay barely twelve hours before I embarked on my outward
journey was both dramatic and cruel, but I stand by my ‘tweet’ posted in
the glorious aftermath of that 3-1 win
over Denmark that a first knockout stage appearance on foreign soil
represents the finest achievement in this country’s footballing history. It was
a huge relief that Takeshi Okada finally found the courage to decide that the
current crop of players were not suited to 4-2-3-1 against stronger opposition,
and a sheer delight to see Keisuke Honda not only sparkle on the highest stage
but do so in an unfamiliar striking role that few observers – myself included –
would have predicted him to fulfil. The outgoing manager deserves enormous
credit for surviving the intense and often excessive condemnation thrown at him
by certain naïve sections of the domestic media to lead his side to within one
penalty kick of a quarter-final against eventual champions Spain.
The challenge for his successor will be to carry the momentum into
January’s Asian Cup in Qatar and a potential guest appearance in next summer’s
Copa America, while the players must prove that they can now cope in the
spotlight and live up to their enhanced reputations. Honda has been linked with
a host of top European clubs, while a J. League exodus has already been
confirmed for Shinji Kagawa
to Borussia Dortmund, Atsuto Uchida to Schalke 04, and goalkeeper Eiji
Kawashima to Lierse of Belgium. Football Japan wishes them all well in their
new adventures.
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